Just got back from surf school! And what an experience it was!
We were 4 students. We got our wetsuits, our surfingboards (9 feet 6 inches long), and 15 minutes of instruction. Then out into the waves!
The beach is made of lovely sand, gradually getting deeper, so I can walk up to 100 meters out. The waves here are MUCH greater than at home, some were 2 meters high!
I did what the teacher said. Lay on the board, crawl to increase the speed, wait until you feel the wave, crawl 3-4 more times, sit on the board, one leg up, and splash! Fell down into the water!
Try again. Repeat the same, one leg up, stand up, and I am surfing! For 10 seconds! On 2nd attempt!
This was every bit of fun I had hoped it to be!
It is more exhausting than I had imagined, so after an hour I had to take a short break.
Then back into the waves again!
I noticed there usually comes one small wave, followed by two or three bigger. I wait for the small one, crawl to increase speed, wait until the big one comes, and up! And I am surfing!
My record for the day was 30 seconds, standing on the board!
Tomorrow morning at 10 starts my 2nd lesson. Can't wait for it. Even if my muscles are very tired right now!
I'm so happy I tried this! I have now ticked off two items on my bucket list.
Verkar som du skulle få ännu högre vågor idag!!!! Se upp - Tsunamivarningen sträcker sig över hela Stilla Havet och det är inte att leka med! Men det vet säkert din instruktör och släpper inte ut er på farliga vågor! Stor förödelse i spåren! Take Care!
ReplyDeleteThanks a lot for the tsunami warning! I heard the tsunami will hit the New Zealand coast. I am at Australia's south coast, so I think it is safe. And none of the instructors mentioned it.
ReplyDeleteThis was my last day surfing, and all is still well.
You too take care!